Rolling
Roads
A
rolling road takes its power reading directly from the driven wheels
of the car. This means involving gearboxes, drive shafts, differentials
and tyres. A lot of people talk about bhp @ the wheels as being
the only meaningful number to quote: "It’s what you race
with" they will tell you. In a way that is correct, but then
the gearbox gets in the way of the true picture. We measure the
torque at the wheels but the rpm is measured at the road wheel roller.
Put the car in a lower gear and the torque at the wheels increases
– but the rpm of the roller is reduced. In theory the resulting
bhp should be exactly the same – but it never is. The lower
the gear that you run the car in, the higher the bhp at the wheels.
This is because we have rolling losses (some call them transmission
losses) that increase with increased roller (and hence road wheel)
rpm. The biggest single rolling loss is the tyre.
Remember
that you have not one, but two contact patches on a rolling road.
The tyre has to be compressed in two places and the faster it spins
the more often it is compressed. The tyre construction, the diameter
and the tyre pressure all have a direct influence on the rolling
losses. As an experiment we measured the power at the wheels of
a Golf GTi. Then we put another 10 psi into the tyres and checked
the power at the wheels again. The power went up by 4bhp! Can you
imagine what happens to the rolling losses when the tyre is compressed
by several bodies sitting on the back of the car trying to find
enough grip to prevent wheel-spin? As long as the bodies stay on
the back during the run-down, which measures the rolling loss, you
get the right result in the power graph. If the bodies all jump
off when the car is knocked out of gear and allowed to run-down,
you lose the tyre compression and the losses are less – distorting
the resulting graph plot. In order to make any sense of rolling
road power figures you must measure the rolling losses and add them
to the power at the wheels. When you do that you can run in any
gear and get the same result on the power graph – almost.
Several
factors prevent you from getting exactly the same result in every
gear. First off a lower gear means more torque at the wheels and
hence a little more tyre slippage than when you run in a higher
gear. The run also takes less time, so the engine accelerates faster
and gives you more of a "flash" reading. Our Sun Ram 12
rolling road allows us to alter the acceleration rate so that we
can adjust it for different power outputs. The software in our system
uses the road speed, measured by the rear roller, to obtain engine
rpm in order to scale the power curve. We take an rpm reading at
60mph and the software works out the revs at any given road speed
from there. What this doesn’t take into account is tyre growth.
As the revs increase the centrifugal force makes the tyre grow –
which alters the gearing slightly, putting the rpm out by a tiny
amount. When you take all these "fudge factors" into account,
it’s a wonder the rolling road is as accurate as it is. But
it can be accurate, and more importantly, repeatable.
With
careful setting up of the acceleration rate to match the engine
power, and accurate setting of the engine rpm, (dashboard tachometers
are often out), you can get a meaningful number from a rolling road.
I know that when trying to improve the engine in the 'Red Shed'
our rolling road is depressingly accurate enough to give the same
power curve time after time – despite my best efforts to increase
the power output! I always call our final figures "simulated"
flywheel figures but they are close enough to engine dynamometers
judging by the comparisons we have available.
Ken
Snailham at Q.E.D recorded 218bhp on his dyno and the same engine
showed 220bhp on our rollers. We’ve had similarly close results
to the Lotus Service Centre dyno and J.E. Engineering’s dyno.
We also see close to factory-quoted power outputs on most standard
cars that we have run in the past.
Mapping
with a rolling road or Dynamometer
For mapping, the rolling road’s acceleration mode is all but
useless, apart from full throttle runs. You have to be able to switch
to fixed (constant) rpm running in order to map and engine. This
means operating in closed loop. In closed loop mode the dyno’s
absorption unit holds the roller rpm regardless of load. Without
a closed-loop rolling road the operator is required to dial in the
load in order to hold the rpm. Having done so, the first change
to the map that increases engine power also moves the engine to
a different speed and load site on the map.
The
operator has to re-adjust the load to get back to the target cell.
I’m not saying that it can’t be done, but it really
needs two people and a lot of time to get a half-decent job done.
Letting the electronics do the donkey-work is a lot faster and a
lot more accurate. You use the acceleration run for full throttle
comparison after the main mapping has taken place. After all, you
can’t do full throttle runs until the engine is close to being
correctly mapped in the first place. Finally - the arguments for
and against dynos and rolling roads... I have worked with both and
if you want to develop an engine, the dynamometer is the place to
do it. It’s more accurate and a lot more convenient to work
just with the engine and nothing else.
But
for final mapping I believe the rolling road is the place to do
it. The engine runs exactly (wind and ground-effect apart) as it
is going to on the track in terms of exhaust.
ROLLING
ROAD CHECK LIST
What to make sure of if you are coming for a Rolling Road session.....
| 1. |
|
Fill
up before you arrive with the type of fuel you will normally
be running and bring a full jerry can if you know that your
engine drinks fuel. The nearest garage to Watton for Optimax
is on the north side of the A11 past Attleborough on the way
to Norwich. |
| 2. |
|
We
use a wide band Lambda sensor for mapping - so leaded fuel or
fuel with additives is definitely unsuitable. |
| 3. |
|
Check
throttle linkages - make sure the engine can reach full throttle.
|
| 4. |
|
Check
for correct oil & coolant levels. |
| 5. |
|
Check
there are no oil or coolant leaks – most important!! |
| 6. |
|
Check
that all spark plugs are in good condition and all leads .....are
firmly attached. |
| 7. |
|
Check
tyres – correct pressure & good tread. |
| 8. |
|
Think
about ground clearance – if you have really low spoilers
consider removing them for the day. |
Double-check
everything you can possibly think of to ensure that your visit to
our Rolling Road is productive as well as enjoyable!!
|